Costume Designers Are Artists Too

When I think about visual communication and art, I tend to think about things like camera angle, color choice, layout, and editing speed. Sometimes, if I am being particularly nerdy, I’ll be really attentive to the less appreciated visual elements of a work, like when filmmakers go out of their way to make the subtitles in a movie fit the action on-screen (like in Night Watch, the Russian fantasy flick some of us caught this past weekend, which had vampiric whispers dissolve into smoke, half-heard echoing voices flickering and moving, and quickly-spoken quips slide offscreen with camera movements—a series of efforts which ranged from interesting and appropriate to distracting and frustratingly illegible).

I’ve never designed costumes before, though, so I’ve never really given much attention to costume design as a visual element. I mean, sure, if you’re making a movie or a graphic novel or something, you want to make sure that everyone’s dressed appropriately for the period. But it never occurred to me that costume design might also involve removing the padding from suits to give a “sacklike appearance”, for example.

Now that I know about this, I think it’s ingenious, and I’m suddenly irritated that this kind of costuming doesn’t get recognized at the Academy Awards. Not like they’d need to offer more awards to distinguish between period costume and really clever contemporary costume design, but am I the only one who would be really fascinated to learn about the minutia of design choices like the one mentioned above? On the one hand, I’d say “no” because that’s the stuff all that ever-in-demand DVD bonus footage is made of; on the other hand, I’d say “yes, I am the only one,” because my previous sentence contained the word “minutia.” Oh well.

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Footnote: So, I chatted with Kristen about this last night, as she spent several years doing costume design. This post is not news to her, of course.

In fact, she recalled an incident in one play in which they had to make these Spanish noble dresses (or something), and some semi-expert seamstress was making them with many real, functional buttons down the back. Kristen pointed out that this would not do; the buttons could be there, but could not be functional. They would have to hide velcro so the whole thing could be removed in an instant. After all, actors need to be able to change on the fly during plays.

This highlighted for me something I was thinking about even as I wrote the post: the title of this position is “costume designer,” yet I highlighted the “art” of it. This is kind of ironic, seeing as how I’m occasionally at pains to explain (especially to clients) that what designers do is provide an aesthetically appropriate user experience, not shoehorn basic functionality into art. The needs of the job come before the prettifying.

Now, thanks to Kristen, I have a story that places costume design squarely in the realm of what I think of as “design.” Not that costume design, or any design, can’t be art, but I feel like it’s a lot easier to discuss objectively good design than anything objective at all about art.



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